Joycon Re-shelling: Original Vs. Joycon 2 Difficulty Guide

Hey there, fellow gamers and DIY enthusiasts! Ever looked at your Nintendo Switch Joycons and thought, "Man, these could use a facelift"? Or maybe you've got some scuffed-up shells and want to give them a fresh, custom look? Re-shelling Joycons is a super popular modification, letting you personalize your gear and even extend its life. But here's a common question that pops up in the community: how does re-shelling the newer "Joycon 2" compare to tackling the original Joycon in terms of difficulty? It's a valid concern, as nobody wants to dive into a project only to find out they're in over their head with a significantly harder process. Well, guys, you're in luck because we're about to break down everything you need to know, comparing the two models side-by-side to help you decide if you're ready to take on this rewarding customization journey. We'll cover everything from the basic tools you'll need to the intricate steps involved, ensuring you have all the insights to confidently approach your re-shelling project, regardless of which Joycon model you own.

Understanding Joycon Re-shelling: The Basics

Before we dive into the nitty-gritty comparison of the Joycon 2 and the original Joycon, let's first get a solid understanding of what re-shelling actually entails and why so many folks are doing it. At its core, re-shelling means replacing the outer plastic casing of your Joycons with new shells. This can be for a variety of reasons, and trust me, there are some really compelling ones! Perhaps your original Joycon shells are scratched, dinged, or just showing the wear and tear of countless gaming sessions. Maybe the color has faded, or perhaps you're experiencing some dreaded stick drift and figure, "While I'm in there fixing the joystick, I might as well spruce up the exterior!" And let's be honest, for many of us, it's all about customization. The sheer variety of aftermarket shells out there – from transparent to matte black, pastel colors to unique designs – allows you to create a truly unique set of Joycons that stand out from the crowd. It's a fantastic way to express your personality and make your Switch feel even more like yours.

To successfully embark on any Joycon re-shelling adventure, whether it's an original Joycon or a Joycon 2, you're going to need a specific set of tools. Think of these as your trusty companions on this delicate mission. First and foremost, you'll need a JIS 000 screwdriver (Japanese Industrial Standard) for the tiny internal screws and a Tri-wing Y00 screwdriver for the external screws that hold the shells together. These are non-negotiable! Trying to use a Phillips head on these can strip the screws, turning a straightforward task into a nightmare. You'll also want some plastic prying tools (spudgers) to carefully separate the shell halves without damaging the plastic, and a pair of fine-tip tweezers will be invaluable for handling the notoriously tiny ribbon cables and components. A magnetic mat is also a lifesaver, helping you keep track of all those microscopic screws that seem to have a talent for disappearing into thin air. Don't forget a small container or even some tape to organize screws by their location – seriously, this step saves so much headache during reassembly! And, of course, you'll need your replacement Joycon shells themselves. Make sure to source high-quality shells from reputable vendors; cheap, poorly molded shells can lead to fitment issues and a less-than-satisfying end result. Remember, patience is your best tool here. These devices are small and delicate, so taking your time, working in a well-lit area, and being mindful of those fiddly ribbon cables will make all the difference. It's not just about swapping plastic; it's about a delicate dance with tiny electronics, and a careful approach will ensure your newly shelled Joycons work perfectly and look fantastic.

Original Joycon Re-shelling: A Deep Dive

Alright, let's talk about re-shelling the original Joycons. This is where many people start their modding journey, and honestly, it's a fantastic learning experience. The process, while delicate, is entirely doable for most DIY enthusiasts, even those with limited prior experience. The key, guys, is to be patient, organized, and aware of the particular challenges that these little controllers present. When you first pop open an original Joycon, you'll immediately notice the intricate layout. You'll encounter tiny screws, delicate ribbon cables, and several small components all packed into a remarkably small space. The disassembly process typically begins with removing the four external Tri-wing screws. Once those are out, you'll use your plastic prying tool to carefully separate the front and back shell halves. Be gentle here, as there are often ribbon cables connecting the two halves, especially on the right Joycon, that you don't want to accidentally rip. Once inside, you'll see the battery, which is usually held down with some adhesive. Gently pry it up with a plastic tool – never use metal, you could puncture it! Beneath the battery, you'll find the main circuit board and other components.

One of the key challenges with original Joycons (and honestly, most small electronics) is those infamous ribbon cables. There are several of them, connecting things like the shoulder buttons (L/R, ZL/ZR), the joystick module, and the various face buttons to the main board. These cables are held in place by small flip-up connectors. You need to use your tweezers to gently lift the latch, then carefully pull the ribbon cable out. Forcing it can permanently damage the connector or the cable itself, rendering your Joycon useless. The ZL and ZR triggers are another point of caution. These often have springs and small plastic pieces that can easily pop out and get lost during disassembly or reassembly. Pay close attention to their orientation and how they fit together. It’s a good idea to take pictures at every stage, especially before removing components like the rumble motor or the joystick module, to serve as a visual guide for reassembly. The joystick module itself is usually held in place by a few JIS screws and has its own ribbon cable. If you're also replacing the joysticks to combat drift, this is the perfect time to do it. The vibration motor, or rumble, is often nestled in a specific cavity and sometimes glued in place. Be careful not to damage its wires. My top tips for success are: first, label your screws. Different screws have different lengths and thread patterns, and putting the wrong screw in the wrong hole can crack plastic or damage internal components. A magnetic mat with labeled sections is a godsend here. Second, take pictures and even videos as you go. This provides an invaluable reference when you're putting everything back together. Third, work slowly and deliberately. There's no prize for finishing fastest, but there's a huge headache for rushing and breaking something. With a steady hand and a methodical approach, you'll find that re-shelling an original Joycon is a very achievable and satisfying DIY project. Just remember, those ribbon cables are your biggest adversaries, so treat them with the utmost respect!

Joycon 2 Re-shelling: What's Different?

Now, let's address the elephant in the room: the "Joycon 2". When people refer to a "Joycon 2," they're generally talking about the Joycons that came with the refreshed Nintendo Switch model (HAC-001(-01)), sometimes informally called the V2 or longer battery life model, or potentially even the Joycons for the OLED Switch (HEG-007). It's important to clarify this because while the core re-shelling process is remarkably similar for the original and the V2 Joycons, there are subtle nuances that might catch you off guard, and the OLED Joycons do introduce a few more distinct differences. For the most part, the internal layout and component placement in the Joycons that shipped with the V2 Switch are nearly identical to the original HAC-001 Joycons. Nintendo made improvements to the battery life of the main console and some internal tweaks to the motherboard, but the actual Joycon design remained largely unchanged from a re-shelling perspective. This is great news for modders, as it means most guides and aftermarket shells designed for the original Joycons will work seamlessly with the V2 Joycons.

However, when we talk about OLED Joycons (HEG-007), this is where you'll find a few more distinct differences. While the overall process of removing screws, disconnecting ribbon cables, and swapping components remains the same, there are minor internal layout changes and sometimes different plastic molding within the shell itself. For example, some users have reported slight variations in the internal rail mechanism or different plastic tabs and standoffs. This means that while many aftermarket shells might fit, some very specific designs or those with extremely tight tolerances designed only for the original model might require a little extra finesse or, in rare cases, might not fit perfectly. The ribbon cables and connectors are generally in the same locations and use the same mechanisms, but their exact lengths or bends might be marginally different due to tiny shifts in the internal board layout. The joystick modules themselves are often interchangeable between all Joycon models, which is a relief, especially for those battling stick drift.

So, are the steps identical or slightly tweaked? For the most part, they are identical when comparing an original Joycon to a V2 Joycon (non-OLED). You'll still deal with the same Tri-wing external screws, the same delicate ribbon cables for the triggers and joystick, and the same general component arrangement. The difficulty level, therefore, remains largely consistent between these two. The main difference in "difficulty" might actually come down to the quality of the aftermarket shell you purchase, rather than the Joycon model itself. A poorly manufactured shell will always be harder to work with, regardless of whether it's an original or a V2 Joycon. If you're re-shelling OLED Joycons, you should just be aware that while the process is largely similar, there can be minor internal mold differences. Always ensure that the aftermarket shells you purchase are explicitly stated to be compatible with your specific Joycon model (e.g., "compatible with OLED Joycons"). In summary, guys, don't expect a radical departure in difficulty when moving from an original Joycon to a V2 Joycon. The challenges remain the same: tiny screws, delicate ribbons, and careful handling. Just be extra vigilant if you're working with OLED Joycons, but even then, the core principles of patience and precision will see you through.

Direct Comparison: Difficulty Levels Unpacked

Alright, guys, let's get down to the brass tacks: a direct comparison of the difficulty levels when re-shelling an original Joycon versus a "Joycon 2" (which we're broadly defining to include both the V2/refreshed model and acknowledging the OLED variations). After dissecting both types, the overwhelming consensus is that the overall difficulty difference is minimal to almost negligible for most parts, especially when comparing the original (HAC-001) to the V2 (HAC-001(-01)) Joycons. The challenges you face, the delicate components, and the tools required are virtually identical. This means that if you've watched a guide for re-shelling an original Joycon, you're pretty much set for a V2 as well. The internal architecture that impacts disassembly and reassembly—like the placement of the main board, the battery, the rumble motor, and the joystick—is extremely consistent.

Let's break it down component by component. When it comes to removing the external screws, both models use the same Tri-wing Y00 screws, and their removal presents the exact same level of difficulty (or ease, depending on your screwdriver quality!). The internal JIS 000 screws are also found in the same spots and quantities across both original and V2 models, securing the main board and other modules. So, no major difference there. The battery removal is also identical; both are typically adhered with a small amount of adhesive, requiring careful prying with a plastic tool. The fragile ribbon cables, which are arguably the most nerve-wracking part of the entire re-shelling process, are located in the same positions and utilize the same flip-up connectors on both original and V2 Joycons. This includes the crucial cables for the L/R and ZL/ZR triggers, the joystick module, and the various button inputs. The level of care required is absolutely identical. One slight mishandling can lead to a damaged ribbon or connector, so consistent caution is key for both models.

Where you might encounter the slightest of nuances is, as mentioned, with OLED Joycons. Some users have reported that the internal plastic standoffs or the way the rail mechanism is integrated might have marginal differences in their molding compared to the older models. This could potentially lead to a slightly tighter fit when trying to install an aftermarket shell that wasn't specifically designed for OLED. However, this isn't a fundamental redesign that makes the process harder, but rather a potential fitment issue if your chosen shell isn't truly universal or OLED-compatible. The actual steps of removing and reinstalling components remain the same. So, for instance, if you're swapping a joystick, the process is exactly the same whether it's an original, V2, or OLED Joycon. Which model presents more challenges? Frankly, neither, in terms of the act of disassembly and reassembly. The primary challenge across all Joycon models is the miniature scale of the components and the delicacy of the ribbon cables. The "difficulty" isn't in a design flaw of one model over the other, but rather in the inherent precision required for working with such small electronics. Common pitfalls like stripped screws, ripped ribbon cables, or misplaced springs are equally prevalent in both original and "Joycon 2" re-shells. The real difference in perceived difficulty often boils down to factors like the quality of your tools, the quality of the replacement shells (a well-molded shell makes assembly much smoother), and your own patience and dexterity. So, don't let the idea of a "Joycon 2" intimidate you; if you're confident tackling an original, you're ready for the V2, and with a little extra awareness, even the OLED versions.

Pro Tips for a Smooth Re-shelling Experience

Alright, guys, whether you're tackling an original Joycon or a Joycon 2, having a few pro tips up your sleeve can make all the difference between a frustrating ordeal and a satisfying customization victory. These are tried-and-true pieces of advice that experienced modders swear by, and they apply universally across all Joycon models. First and foremost, patience is your superpower. Seriously, don't rush! These are small, delicate devices, and trying to hurry through steps is the fastest way to strip a screw, tear a ribbon cable, or lose a tiny spring. Take breaks if you feel frustrated, and approach each step with a calm, methodical mindset. Think of it less as a race and more like a meticulous craft project. Good lighting is also incredibly crucial. A well-lit workspace will help you see those microscopic screws and ribbon cable connectors clearly, reducing the chances of error. Natural light is great, but a strong desk lamp can be your best friend.

Another indispensable tip is to invest in quality tools. While cheap toolkits might seem tempting, using dull screwdrivers or flimsy plastic prying tools is a recipe for disaster. A good set of JIS 000 and Tri-wing Y00 screwdrivers with magnetic tips will prevent stripped screws and make handling them much easier. Similarly, sturdy plastic spudgers and fine-tip tweezers are essential. And speaking of screws, remember that magnetic mat we talked about? It's not just a suggestion, it's a lifesaver! Organize your screws as you remove them, perhaps by drawing a simple diagram of the Joycon and placing the screws on the corresponding locations. This prevents mixing up different screw types and sizes, which can cause significant issues during reassembly. Also, take pictures or even video at every single stage of disassembly. Seriously, snap away! These visual aids are invaluable when you're putting everything back together, especially when you can't quite remember how a certain ribbon cable was folded or where a small component was seated.

When it comes to sourcing quality shells, this is absolutely critical for a smooth re-shelling experience. There's a wide range of aftermarket shells out there, and their quality varies wildly. Cheap, poorly molded shells can have issues with fitment, leading to buttons sticking, gaps in the casing, or even problems with the internal components seating correctly. Look for reputable vendors who specialize in Switch modding parts and have positive reviews regarding their shell quality. A slightly more expensive, well-machined shell will save you immense headaches down the line. Finally, be prepared for troubleshooting common issues. It's not uncommon to reassemble everything only to find a button isn't responding or, ironically, you've introduced new joystick drift (often due to not fully seating the joystick ribbon cable or the module itself). If a button isn't working, it's almost always a ribbon cable that isn't fully seated or its connector isn't properly latched. Carefully re-open the Joycon, recheck all connections, and gently but firmly re-seat them. For joystick issues, ensure the module's ribbon cable is perfectly aligned and secured. Sometimes, even the shell itself can subtly put pressure on the joystick. Don't be discouraged if things aren't perfect on the first try; troubleshooting is part of the DIY process. With these pro tips in mind, you're well-equipped to tackle your Joycon re-shelling project with confidence and achieve a fantastic, customized result!

Is It Worth It? The Customization Payoff

So, after all this talk about tiny screws, delicate ribbon cables, and the minimal yet existing differences between original Joycons and Joycon 2s, you might be wondering: is it truly worth the effort? And my answer, guys, is a resounding YES! While re-shelling is undeniably a meticulous task requiring patience and a steady hand, the payoff is incredibly rewarding. There's an immense sense of satisfaction that comes from transforming your standard Joycons into something truly unique, something that reflects your personal style or even matches your favorite game's aesthetic. Imagine rocking transparent purple Joycons, or a sleek matte black set, or vibrant pastel hues that Nintendo never offered. This level of personalization is what makes the DIY route so appealing. It's not just about aesthetics either; if your original shells are worn or damaged, replacing them can give your Joycons a new lease on life, effectively extending their usability and saving you the cost of buying an entirely new set. Plus, for those of us who love to tinker, the process itself is a fantastic learning experience, boosting your confidence in handling small electronics.

Even though the difficulty comparison between Joycon 2 and original Joycon re-shelling revealed very little difference in the actual process—with the primary challenges being the miniature components rather than fundamental design changes between models—the psychological aspect plays a role. Knowing that you've successfully navigated those tiny connectors and screws, and then seeing your perfectly customized, fully functional Joycons, is a fantastic feeling. It's a testament to your patience and skill. So, if you're on the fence, I say go for it! Do your research, gather your quality tools, choose your dream shells, and most importantly, approach the project with a calm and focused mindset. The journey might have a few fiddly moments, but the destination—a pair of custom, stunning Joycons that are uniquely yours—is absolutely worth every single careful screw turn. Happy modding, everyone!